I went to Tampa Bay Comic Con dressed as Nanao Ise and my friend as Shunsui Kyoraku from Bleach. I'll definitely say the hardest part was his pink haori, but I'll do my best give you a detailed description of how I made it :) Sorry I don't have too many process shots >.<
Pink Haori Materials:
- 5 yards of light pink fabric: I used a lightweight fabric that looked sort of like canvas, but definitely not as thick and had some flow to it. I wish I could tell you the name, but I got it overseas and couldn't quite read what he label said.
- **I didn't actually use all 5 yards
- Scissors or an X-acto knife (I used both)
- Iron
- 3 bottles of Tulip Slick Dimensional Fabric Paint, Fluorescent Pink (marked as "FL Pink")
- Painter's Tape (usually blue; and you'll usually want a wide one since you'll be cutting it later)
- 4" plastic spackling spatula (also can be found in painting or cake decorating sections)
- DecoFabric Markers in Green, Red, Black, and White (you may need 2 white ones)
***DON'T USE SHARPIE FABRIC MARKERS, THE COLOR WILL NOT TRANSFER WELL ON TOP OF OTHER PAINTS
- Simplicity Kimono Pattern (get more fabric than the pattern calls for...you may need it for extra length)
take note that this tutorial makes a very short kimono, so you will have to
adjust the measurements and make it much longer.]
- Optional: Paper plate, trash bags, poster board, gift wrapping tubes/broom stick(s).
Sewing Instructions:
- Cut out the pattern or create a pattern to your measurements. Creating a pattern sounds intimidating, but traditional Japanese clothing is made from very simple shapes, in this case, a bunch of rectangles :) However, I still recommend getting the Simplicity pattern, it may not be the "traditional" Japanese version, but it gets accurate cosplay results ;)
- Lay out your fabric on a flat surface. Pin, trace, and cut out the fabric according to the instructions you're using, don't forget to extend the pattern to the length you need it. **Also, extend the band that goes around the whole thing, the simplicity pattern makes it shorter than the length of the kimono**
- Now it's time to sew. You'll start with the two back panels and put the right sides of the fabric together. Sew them together at the seam allowance mentioned in either pattern. After the back panels, grab the front panels and, again, put right sides together as you sew the side and shoulder to the respective back panel. Remember to leave a gap on the top of the side seam that's half the size of your sleeve rectangle on each side.
- *What I mean by right sides together: Lets say you have a glittery side and a dull side and the goal is to show the glittery side. When you put right sides together, you are going to put both glittery sides together, one on top of the other, so that all you can see is the dull part on the top or bottom. In other words, the part you want visible in the outfit will be hidden when you sew it, that way, when you flip it right-side out, you won't be able to see what you've sewn.
- The sleeves I inserted in this haori are not dangly, and are fully inserted with no gap in the armpit. Therefore, cut out the rectangles that are supposed to be the sleeves and fold each rectangle in half with the right sides together. Sew each separate sleeve according to the seam allowance, then flip right side out.
- By this point, you should have the haori generally built and now it's time to put in the sleeves :)This is usually the hardest part, but building it with these patterns should be too hard, I hope you didn't forget to leave that armhole gap!
- Now, flip the haori inside out and leave the sleeves right side out. Place the sleeves inside the gap and line up the edges. It should look something like this:
- If you look closely, the outside rim should be the haori, but inside out, and the piece with the yellow thread is the sleeve (the part you can see will be the "wrong side" of the fabric, but technically, if you look. the right sides of the fabrics will be together)
- Sew at the appropriate seam allowance, making sure there's no tucks or pleats. The sleeves should go in perfectly to match the open armhole you made, but you can always adjust that hole to make life easier for yourself.
- Do this on both sides, but don't add the front band that goes around the neck yet. that'll be the last part since you gotta paint the thing first.
Painting Instructions:
- You need reference pictures. Here's the one's I mainly used.
- Find where you want the darker pink to fall in regards to your body (in this case, we made it the lower back), measure what that is from the bottom (since that's the most even part) and place the tape evenly along those measurements.
- Then put the tape on the sleeves too, falling at the same place it falls on the body of the haori.
- Using the reference pics, draw the bottom shape of the dark pink section with a pencil on the tape and cut it out however possible, making sure the keep the tape straight. I'm pretty sure I just took it all off (marking where it was with tailor's chalk), cut it, and put it back where it was.
- Do the same with the sleeves.
- Now get ready to paint. I used a paper plate as a palette and poked a hole to fit my thumb to hold it comfortably, and the spatula as my painting tool. I had a dressform to assist in the painting process (and covered her with a trash bag so I wouldn't get paint all over the place.)
- Grab enough paint on the spatula to spread an even coat on the haori; I only did one layer of paint for this whole thing.
- Make sure there are no clumps throughout this process, since its puffy paint, it'll stay like that and you don't want streaks all over the place. I would suggest starting from the tape and going upward since going down would result in a less than perfect line (the paint seeped through the tape a bit when I did it from top to bottom).
- Painting where you see all the wrinkles was tricky with the spatula, so I just used my finger to even the coating out. Unfortunately, I couldnt have the sleeves touching the body of the haori because 1. it'd stick and 2. it'd leave an unwanted texture. So I used poster board to keep the texture and roundness of the sleeve, and gift wrapping tubes and a broom stick to keep them from touching anything else.
- If possible, avoid drying the haori with the wrinkles in it, it may affect it's shape and the way it flows.
- Once dry, take the tape off, and preheat iron to hottest steam setting; hold the iron above the paint, but making sure not to touch it, and steam away.
- All websites and instructions say to wait 72 hours before washing. I personally didn't wash the haori, but I wish I did; it would have made it alot softer.
- If you do choose to wash it, turn the haori inside out, and use warm water.
- After the whole haori is dry, its time to pull out those nifty Deco Fabric Markers and begin outlining everything with black. If you aren't good at drawing or just prefer an alternative, try making stencils out of cardboard since there's quite a few repeating shapes (clouds, circle with swirls, big rose with leaves, little rose with leaves, red leaves, and mini white flowers).
- Color everything in!
- Thankfully it doesn't dry that stiff, risk washing it if you want, but I personally wouldnt >.<
- Second to last step: sew the light pink band around the front and neck. To do this, fold the fabric you had for this in half (this time WRONG sides together) and pin it on top of the RIGHT side of the haori. Make sure the center seam lines up with the center of the neck and it goes all the way to the bottom of the haori. Pin and sew.
- Hem the edge of the sleeves and the bottom of the haori.
AND YOU'RE FINALLY DONE! Give yourself a pat on the back!
If you have any questions leave a comment and I'll get back to you ASAP!
